Learn how to make a cheap and easy DIY shiplap wall with this easy tutorial. With only plywood and nails you can recreate this expensive look for less.
Shiplap!
Oh the things husbands do for us!
Can I just say I am so happy we did this? It makes the wall behind our bed a focal point and I love the how the plank wall adds texture to the wall.
This project was actually easier than expected and was pretty inexpensive!
The total cost for the project came under $100 for a 160″ by 90″ wall.
Not too bad for such a huge impact. We also did this on the ceilings in the kids rooms to cover up those not so pretty popcorn ceilings. You can find that tutorial here.
Adding this feature completely changes the look of this room and we are so thankful we did it.
Tips For Creating A Shiplap Wall
We used 6″ plywood strips, but you could cut this thinner or thicker depending on what you are going for. We have 8″ original shiplap in our boys closet, but I’ve also seen some really beautiful skinny lap with 3″ strips.
Choose plywood boards wisely making sure they don’t blemishes or are bowed. Smooth and straight will work best.
Speaking of that, we also had a major bow in the plaster to contend with. We solved that by having me hold the boards out a little, to make them even with the others, while my husband shot the nail in.
This post contains affiliate links, which means I make a small commission at no extra cost to you. See my full disclosure here.
DIY Shiplap Supplies And Tools
- Plywood: 4 sheets 4′ by 8′ sanded plywood at 11/32″ thickness, cut into 6″ strips
- Air compressor and nail gun
- 1 and 3/8″ 18 gauge nails
- Nickel for a spacer
- Circular saw: to cut the top piece.
- Miter saw: for cutting pieces to length.
- Jig saw: for cutting out specs for light switches and outlets.
- Painting supples: rollers, paint brush, primer, paint.
- Stud finder
- Level
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How To Install Shiplap Wall
Step One: Prepping Materials And Wall
- Purchase and cut plywood down to 6 inch strips. I bought four sheets of 4’X8′ sanded plywood at 11/32″ thickness. I had Lowes cut it in 6″ strips. At $.25 per cut it was worth every penny. You could also use a table saw to rip them down yourself.
- Mark studs on wall using stud finder and pencil to ensure that each board is nailed into a stud.
Step Two: Nail Shiplap Onto Wall
- Starting at the baseboard, we placed one full 8′ board at the edge of the wall and nailed it in place use nail gug.
- Next, cut one to fit the rest of the wall, which for our wall was right at 5 and 1/3 feet. Place besides the 8 foot piece and nail into place.
- This left us with several scraps just under 3 feet. If the wall had been an even 12 feet, we would have done an 8 foot and 4 foot piece in each row and had no leftover pieces, but the world is not perfect and our house is old.
- This left us with several scraps just under 3 feet. If the wall had been an even 12 feet, we would have done an 8 foot and 4 foot piece in each row and had no leftover pieces, but the world is not perfect and our house is old.
- Place 8 foot board on the opposite side of the wall above the previous row and use a nickel as a spacer between each new row, sliding it along as we nailed the board into place.
- We just continued to alternate which side we used the 8 foot board on. We used a Bostitch air compressor and nail gun and 1 and 3/8 inch 18 gauge nails that we purchased at Lowes. It made the project pretty speedy!
- We just continued to alternate which side we used the 8 foot board on. We used a Bostitch air compressor and nail gun and 1 and 3/8 inch 18 gauge nails that we purchased at Lowes. It made the project pretty speedy!
- Use a level every few boards to make sure the boards are staying level and not getting too wonky. We definitely had to fudge a little here and there to get things even.
- Cut around any outlets or switches by placing planks on the wall, marking where they need to be cut, and then cut them out using jigsaw.
- Continue alternating boards and using the nickel spacer to nail the shiplap onto the wall until you get near the top.
Step 3: Cut The Top Shiplap Plank
- Measure the space between the last wood strip and the ceiling.
- Cut last piece of plywood and nail into place.
- We did have to cut the top board (right below the crown molding) to be a little less than 6″ wide, as the the (nickel sized) spaces between the boards caused there to be slightly less than 6″ left at the top.
Step 4: Paint
- Optional step: fill nail holes with putty, allow to dry, and then paint. Honestly, we didn’t do this and didn’t mind the small nail holes. You really couldn’t even see them.
- The next day I primed the wall and then painted the whole wall with Benjamin Moore White Dove.
The DIY Shiplap Wall Is Up
After a few hours, the whole wall was done!
I would say most of the time is spent in the prep work, getting the wood and having it cut, cutting the boards to fit and notching it out in the appropriate spots, like on the corners of the baseboards and the electrical outlets.
After all that its smooth sailing!
I love how it turned out! It makes the room feel so light, bright and cozy!
Common Questions People Ask:
How much is shiplap?
Real shiplap has tongue and groove boards that actually fit together, and can be pricey. The shiplap wall in this tutorial cost less than $100. This shiplap tutorial is not actually real shiplap, but is much cheaper.
I have seen real shiplap and I honestly can’t tell the difference between the real tongue and groove and plywood. That ‘s why I opted to go the cheap route!
How wide is shiplap?
The shiplap in this tutorial is 6″ wide, but actual widths can vary. We have real shiplap, from 100 years ago, exposed in our boys’ closet. It is closer to 8″.
What color should you paint shiplap?
We used Benjamin Moore White Dove because I really love the look of white shiplap, but I have seen it look really beautiful in gray and darker colors as well.
You can paint the shiplap before or after your install it. For this tutorial we waited until after it was in place, but you could also paint it before like we did for the ceilings.
Do you put shiplap over drywall?
Yes. You can place it right over drywall or plaster. It it a great way to cover up some wall damage. If you do have a lot of damage you may want to try to repair it before adding shiplap.
Check out the other posts in this bedroom makeover here:
And since so many have asked where my iron bed is from…it is the antique bronze metal bed from Target. I hope to write a review on it in the near future, but *spolier alert* we love it!
Find More Farmhouse Inspired DIY Projects:
- DIY Farmhouse Coffee Table Plans
- Farmhouse Living Room Built Ins
- Victorian Farmhouse Kitchen Reveal
- How to Cover Concrete Steps with Wood
- Ten Foot Office or Craft Room Desk Tutorial
DIY Shiplap Wall
Learn how to make a cheap and easy DIY Shiplap wall with plywood. This project is perfect for beginners and can be done in one afternoon, especially if you have the hardware store cut the plywood for you.
Materials
- 4 sheets 4′ by 8′ sanded plywood at 11/32″ thickness, cut into 6″ strips
Tools
- Air compressor and nail gun
- 1 and 3/8″ 18 gague nails
- Nickel for a spacer
Instructions
Purchase and cut plywood down to 6 inch strips. I bought four sheets of 4'X8' sanded plywood at 11/32" thickness. I had Lowes cut it in 6" strips. You could also use a table saw to rip them down yourself.
Mark studs on wall using stud finder and pencil to ensure that each board is nailed into a stud.
Starting at the baseboard, we placed one full 8' board at the edge of the wall and nailed it in place use nail gug.
Next, cut one to fit the rest of the wall, which for our wall was right at 5 and 1/3 feet.
Place besides the 8 foot piece and nail into place.
Place 8 foot board on the opposite side of the wall above the previous row and use a nickel as a spacer between each new row, sliding it along as we nailed the board into place.
We just continued to alternate which side we used the 8 foot board on.
Use a level every few boards to make sure the boards are staying level and not getting too wonky. We definitely had to fudge a little here and there to get things even.
Cut around any outlets or switches by placing planks on the wall, marking where they need to be cut, and then cut them out using jigsaw.
Continue alternating boards and using the nickel spacer to nail the shiplap onto the wall until you get near the top.
Measure the space between the last wood strip and the ceiling.
Cut last piece of plywood and nail into place.
Optional step: fill nail holes with putty, allow to dry, and then paint. Honestly, we didn't do this and didn't mind the small nail holes. You really couldn't even see them.
The next day I primed the wall and then painted the whole wall with Benjamin Moore White Dove.
Notes
We had to cut the top board (right below the crown molding) to be a little less than 6″ wide, as the the (nickel sized) spaces between the boards caused there to be slightly less than 6″ left at the top.
I would say most of the time is spent in the prep work, getting the wood and having it cut, cutting the boards to fit and notching it out in the appropriate spots, like on the corners of the baseboards and the electrical outlets.
Lynn says
We did shiplap behind our bed in the spring!! And I have the can of White Dove sitting up there, however I have not gotten around to painting it yet! Soon!! Because yours looks so beautiful!! Did you paint all your walls this color? We did our living rooms and stairwell recently and I was so pleased with how it brightened up the spaces.
Lisa Bass says
I did all the walls in the bedroom and kitchen in this color. Just love it!
Mike says
Do you need to paint the wall a dark color ( black) behind the shiplap?
Lisa says
No. Our wall is just white behind there.
Audra says
Lisa could’ve also used a stain to “paint” the wall(s), but then it would be suggested to paint the wall behind with a similar paint stain color so as to not show the white wall behind it.. unless you want that look.
Sherri says
Did you have to move the electrical outlets out to accommodate the extra thickness of the wall and if so how or if not how?
Lisa Bass says
You will have to put a spacer in the bring the outlets out to the same level as the shiplap, if that makes sense. We still need to do that, honestly. Our outlet is behind the bed, so we were able to get away with it.
Kat says
Your bedroom is beautiful. Having wood on the wall does makes such a difference for the feeling of a room. I wonder, though, if you realize that this is not shiplap. Shiplap is a specific kind of board that has a rabbet joint on each long edge. At best you could call this faux shiplap. Misnaming it, however, does not change the beauty of your bedroom!
Lisa Bass says
haha Thank you so much! Yes I know its not real. More of a shiplap look. 😉
Philip says
Kat,
You will notice if you read through the article that Lisa already stated that it was not “actual” shiplap material. Seriously no need to be negative. The finished product looks great and fits within the budget.
Bobbi says
Looks lovely, adds so much character to the room, job well done.
Lisa Bass says
Thank you so much!
Mischa says
Did you use spacers of some sort to space these? It looks like you have gaps between boards. It looks great and I’m trying to mimick this perfectly 🙂
Lisa Bass says
Yes we did! We used a nickel. I guess I forgot to add that to the post. Thank you for bringing that to my attention! 🙂
Denise says
Yes Lisa, you did mention you used a nickel. Haha, people will have you doubting yourself…🙃
I’m reading your post years later. Enjoyed it and pretty room. Great innovation!
Cailin burns says
Did you roll or brush paint this? We’re doing the same thing soon and curious how people painted theirs thanks!
Lisa Bass says
We rolled most of it but had to use the brush in the spaces between the boards. 🙂
Anne says
Can you tell me where you bought the beautiful iron bed? I am looking for one but have been hesitant to buy online because you never know how sturdy it will be.
Ashley says
I just saw this post and we sell one at my store. My store is Erdos at Home, and the bed is called Winchester Bed. It is extremely well made – I have one in my guest room – plus its heavy and BEAUTIFUL! I love it. We ship Nationwide! Let us know if you would like some info emailed to you. Our website is http://www.erdosathome.com. Our phone number is 205-444-0641 and my email is ashley.askew@erdosathome.com if you have any questions!
Lisa Bass says
Target 🙂
Sara says
Must of not read her whole blog all the questions are already in there
ralene says
the lights!!! where do i get the lights???
Lisa Bass says
I found them at a garage sale. SO sorry!! Wish I could help you out on that! If I ever find anything similar in a store I will link them for sure. 😉
Kaleigh says
Did you have a hard time installing your sconce lights over the plywood? What’d you use for a wall anchor?
kara says
This looks great and we are getting ready to do this project this weekend! A couple of questions: 1.) Did you "seal" the corners of the shiplap? I cannot tell by the pictures and was wondering what you did where the "shiplap" met the corner of the other wall. 2.)Did you do any special around the base boards/crown molding?
Lisa Bass says
We didn’t seal it or add anything where it met the other wall. I suppose you could add some kind of trim to make the transition a little smoother. Good luck on your project this weekend! You will love it!!
Linda Mc says
I have a question about the project (beautiful, by the way). You mentioned the boards were cut into 6" strips. Did those fit exactly from the baseboard to the top molding by spacing with the nickel?
Lisa Bass says
Thank you so much for asking this question! It is definitely something I should add to my post. No, it did not work out perfectly. We had to cut the top pieces to the right size. They are about an inch shorter than the others.
Audra says
Lisa, just a thought.. would you suggest starting at the top of the wall if someone else we’re to do this? That way if if you had to cut a narrower board it wouldn’t be so noticable at the bottom. Also you could cover the narrower board with baseboard trim if needed or preferred.
Audra says
Lisa, just a thought… If you were to do this project again, do you think you’d start at the top of the wall first? That way if you have a narrower board it won’t show up so much b/c either furniture would cover the narrower board… Or you could add base board trim.
Julie says
Hi Audra, I was wondering the same thing. To me, the smaller board may be more noticeable along the top than if at the bottom.
Hilda says
Did you buy the 4’x8′ "siding" or a plain, flat solid sheet of plywood?
Lisa Bass says
Just plain sanded plywood. 🙂
Lori says
My builder showed me a faux shiplap he did. He used plywood and made faux cuts into it so it looks like it is boards on a wall.
Lisa Bass says
Wow that seems like a very interesting and potentially awesome idea!
Sherrie says
Beautiful project. I have seen 4×8 sheets of various woods — like luan — for just over $10 a sheet. With the 25 cents a cut, I would think you would get out under $25 for the one wall. Am I calculating this incorrectly or how much was your sheet wood and how big? I want to do this. I thought the thinnest would be the easiest to work with — maybe not. Can you give your thoughts? Also, what did you mean by "notching the corners of the baseboards?" Thanks! Cannot wait to try this!
Lisa Bass says
We used four of the 4′ by 8′ sheets of 11/32" sanded plywood. I believe they were around $15 each, so $60 for all four. Then we had to pay for all the cuts and tax. It was under $100. 🙂 Our baseboards have a little piece of trim in the corners, so we had to notch the wood to fit around that.
Brittany Anderson says
Is there a reason you chose this
Thickness of plywood. We were considering using thinner wood. Like .25. We can’t wait to try this for our rooms
Lisa Bass says
Since you can kind of see through the gaps slightly I wanted to be sure it would look substantial. But I have even seen peel and stick shiplap that looks good, so I am sure the thinner wood would be just fine!
Loop says
Do you have to find a board behind wall to nail to?
Lisa Bass says
We didn’t worry about that. But, our house is old and has all the slates behind, because of the plaster walls. If you are working with drywall and studs, you may want to find the studs to go into.
Heather says
Did you use flat paint?
Lisa Bass says
I used a semi gloss.
Jessica says
Would you think this would work on a wall with a window?
Lisa Bass says
It would, but you would just have to make a lot more cuts. Does the window have wood trim? you may have to take it off, if so.
Jeffrey says
Getting ready to start a farmhouse redo of our second bathroom. 1st project faux shiplap. Picked up the plywood this morning. Thanks for the inspiration and hints.
Lisa Bass says
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!!
Amber T. says
Who cut you boards into 6" strips? We can’t find a store in our area that will cut smaller than 12"
Audra says
She says she bought her 4′ x 8′ sheets of plywood at Lowe’s and they cut it for her. Home Depot will do the cuts too for an extra charge.
Dawn H says
Did you paint the other walls in the room the same color?
Lisa Bass says
Yes I did! 🙂
Susan Phillips says
I love this idea but have put it off due to the expense. Your idea has solved my dilemma! However, I wanted to have a more natural look, using a stain rather than paint. Do you think I could use stain on this type of wood?
Lisa Bass says
I totally think you could use stain, but I can’t say for sure because I haven’t tried it. But it did look like it had a lot of nice wood grain that would probably look great stained.
Isabella Rose says
Where did you get the lights next to the bed?
Lisa Bass says
I found them at a garage sale. :/ Sorry! I really wish I could tell you where to find them.
Katie says
Did you use putty to cover up the nail holes before painting?
Shannon says
I would love to know if you used putty to fill nail holes as well. This looks fabulous!
Lisa says
No, we didn’t. They are very tiny.
Patricia White says
My husband made me a wall in my Lularoe boutique! It came out fabulous!!! Thank you so much !!!
Mary McNulty says
I am so disappointed. My husband just called me from the home improvement store and they will not cut 1/4" plywood into 6" strips. They said it is too thin will break and splinter. They will cut it in 1-foot strips. 🙁 We will figure something out.
Shannda says
Hi! I know this post is older but question… was it difficult to hang the lights after you finished? I want to do this to my room but I like more stuff on the wall.
Beautiful project! Thanks!
Lisa Bass says
I actually found it easier, because we have plaster walls which are really hard to get the screws to grab into, so the added wood is very helpful!
GayeLynn Beesley says
I’m wondering if this would work on a ceiling installation? Thoughts?
farmhouse_lisab says
Yes, definitely! In fact, I will be sharing a post on that very soon!
Julie says
GayeLynn – we just installed car siding (tongue and groove) board to our ceiling and it is beautiful!
Jim says
I completed a project similar to yours. Mine was larger wal, had to install a new outlet for,a mounted television… I found I had to use two nails to help me hold the plywood strips as a second hand. I used a 6″ length of a cutoff piece of board as a template, used 1/8 tile spacers and a ten Penney nail (1/8″ diameter) below to set them. I started at the top as I wanted a full board there.
I only used one coat of paint, i wanted to worn throw look.
Judy says
You did a beautiful job. I want to do this to one wall in my bathroom. I see that you put a space between each row. Did you put a space between the boards where the ends meet or just butt them together? Did you leave space at each wall end for expansion and contraction?
Lisa says
We didn’t put spaces in those places, but that probably would be a good idea for expansion and contraction. Our wall has been through the seasons now, and we haven’t seen any issues, though. Thank you so much for stopping by!
Emily says
What color did you paint the other non-shiplap walls in this room? The shiplap is White Dove and the walls are more gray, right? Did you happen to know the name of the paint color for the gray? I love this look. Thank you for sharing!
Lisa says
They are actually all the exact same color. Sometimes the camera and lighting do funny things. 😉
Joni says
Love!!
April says
Did you have any trouble nailing into the plaster walls? I swear my walls are made of concrete. It is hard to drill a hole to hang a picture.
Audra says
Suggestion: it might be easier to buy or rent an air compressor & a nail gun to get through your tough walls. Depending on the thickness of faux shiplap you use will determine what length of nails to use. Let the rental place know. They should be able to advise you. Plus they can have someone show you how to use their equipment… especially if they want it returned in good working condition… Hahaha. Don’t be afraid to try to use an air compressor. They’re noisy & most run on electricity. Have fun!!!
Barbara says
We are going to do this treatment on our bedroom wall too. We are going to put up some foam insulation first and then cover it with the shiplap. Since the wall faces north it gets quite chilly in the winter here in Michigan. I will post pics once we are done. Wish us luck!
Wendy says
Did you use construction adhesive on the back?
Lisa says
No, we didn’t.
Anna says
So glad I found you on Pinterest!! Gorgeous bedroom! Following your tutorial as we speak! Just finished painting my faux shiplap boards white dove but in matte!! Just saw the comments that yours is a semi gloss. Is your whole room a semi gloss? Should the feature wall be semi gloss n not matte???
Lisa says
The walls are all semi-gloss just because they wipe up better than the matte. My kiddos get the walls a little messy sometime. I’m sure the flat paint is fine also though!
Karah says
Where did you find your lights that you hung next to the bed?
Lisa says
I found them at a garage sale. So sorry I am no help there!
chris says
I have done 2 entire rooms in plywood shiplap and absolutely love it … getting ready to do one accent wall in our guest bedroom. I am surprised, tho, that your Lowe’s will cut the boards for you to the width of 6 inches … we ran into the issue of our big box stores, both HD and Lowe’s, saying cutting less than 12 inches is an OSHA violation – there are even signs posted which say that … so we had them cut the plywood sheets into 3 – 16 inch boards, then we cut those in half ourselves and used 8″ wide boards for our shiplap. I hammered EVERY nail, countersunk EVERY nail and puttied EVERY countersink!!!! A lot of work, but worth it! We had problems in a wall where there was a pocket door and had no studs to nail to … adhesives didn’t seem to want to work, but we finally got that particular wall to work … I also painted the walls first as we had dark paint on them and I didn’t want that showing thru … that said, I marked the walls where the shiplap would be and then just painted wide horizontal stripes so that the paint on the walls would be covered up w/the same paint I was going to use on the shiplap. I painted one room a soft grey, looks amazing. The other room is painted an off white that has a beige/cream undertone and is stunning. I start at the top by the ceiling with my shiplap so if there is going to be a board that is not as wide, I want it to be on the bottom of the wall where it is less noticeable. I am a senior … so if I can do this, anyone can!
Lisa says
Oh wow! I haven’t heard of Lowe’s refusing to do that. Maybe its a new thing? I certainly hope not, because that makes it sooo much easier! Glad you are enjoying your beautiful “shiplap” walls. 🙂 Thank you so much for stopping by my blog!
Dianne L Weiss says
What were the name of the colors you used?
Kathy says
We are in the process of buying a home. I love the farmhouse look! I will definitely be using your website for help in making our new home the farmhouse style look that I so love!
Andrea says
I love your room! I’ve been interested in trying a shiplap wall and I have a weird question? With she spaces between the boards, do you get little spiders in there? You know how they find any tiny place to get into. Haha. Thanks!
Lisa says
I have never noticed that happening. I may think about it more now! Ha. 😉
Jodee says
My wall has rounded corners. Any ideas?
Carol says
We’re going to start our shiplap wall in our powder room. We have two short walls and then one longer wall. I see yours looks cut and staggered length wise. Could they be all the same length.? Our boards fit from one side to the other.
Thanks
Lisa says
Yes that’s what I would do if they fit wall to wall! 🙂
Gabrielle says
Did you paint the edges of your boards? e.g. the tiny edge where you do the nickle spacer?
Lisa says
No we did not.
Jessy says
Did you have to do anything special around your electrical outlets or did the covers fit back on and look correct after?
Kristin says
Absolutely love this! We are starting this project this weekend. I have a question though, did you prime and sand the wood before painting it? Or did you just paint on the bare wood? Thanks.
Charla says
How long have you had this wall and was there shrinking of the wood since it is. It the tongue and groove?
Lesa says
Total Homemaker question … does dust get into the groove spaces in between the boards? I’m already a mediocre housekeeper. Don’t need another place to have trouble cleaning! HA!
Lindsay says
I am sorry if this is a duplicate comment but where did you get the sconces?
Lisa says
Those were a $5 garage sale find. Sorry I’m not helpful there!
Dava says
I LUV LUV your wall and room….I have been having thoughts of doing something like this in our master bedroom….I do have a window on wall though and this has told me how to work around it. As for the iron bed, funny but we already have 2 inour home as well as a daybed in husbands office….all are from the company Wesley Allen because I feel they have the best made ones, strong, customizable from factory.. 1 is all black with farmhouse feel quite similar to yours, the other is a silver and gold mix and more of a fancy romantic feel…that’s In a guestroom with wall behind it a Ralph Lauren Metallic Gold! Wall next to that Pewter with a whitewash and other 2 walls a creamy tan.
holli says
Is it necessary to use spacers? My walls are not painted the same color underneath where the wood will go.
Lisa says
I would use the spacers, just because it will show off the texture that the shiplap adds. 🙂
Wendy winch says
Love this but here in Perth Australia we have double brick walls so possibly would need to attatch battons to the walls first so that the boards have something to be nailed to . Great idea love it . Always looking for cheaper alternatives ?
JoAnne says
Your home is lovely! We just completed faux shiplap in our daughter’s half bath and it looks awesome! Our local Lowe’s cut our 4×8 blemish free 1/4″ plywood sheets (primed back) into 8″ strips (actual 8″ strips…meaning the last cut of each sheet was not a full 8″, which worked out perfect for height of our walls). We did remove the old baseboards and started installation from floor up, using a nickel as our spacer throughout project. We did not caulk the corner seams, we covered them with cove molding (30 cents a foot at our local hardware store). We attached each board into studs, painted edges as we went along and filled nail holes (we used 18 gauge electric nailer) lightly sanded where needed and painted 2 coats of Swiss Coffee. Our outlet/light switch did not need extending. It turned out beautiful! Thank you for the inspiration!
Michael says
So question… you did not remove the baseboard or crown molding? just placed on top of the baseboard and leveled?
Lisa says
Yep!
Jim says
When you do the butt joints do you leave any kind of gap for expansion or do you just butt them right up against eachother?
Jackie says
Hello,
Any suggestions for doing a wall with windows that have rounded corners around the windows if that makes sense? Thanks! Looks beautiful!
alyssa says
Hi there, I’m looking at doing something similar on my ceiling. Do you know how far apart you spaced each nail? Thanks!
Kim says
Would this work behind a sink in a bathroom. I have an alcove in a hall bath where my sink sits and I would love to do this behind the sink to give the alcove a little texture.
Caitlin says
What finish for the paint did you use? And how did you decide? I love the Benjamin Moore white dove but I’m having a hard time deciding between what finish to use.
Lisa says
We used semi gloss!
wilhelmina says
This looks awesome! You have inspired me to tackle a similar project in my home!
Ashley Presciutti says
This is beautiful and I love how bright it is!
Jenni says
That looks neat! Would love to try it to my room! Thank you!
Lindsay Cotter says
This is gorgeous! I love shiplap!!
Ashleigh says
Did you have to sand the edges after Lowe’s ripped them or were you able to immediately put them on the wall?
Lisa says
We just put them right on the wall.
r says
It’s really what I love for my room, Actually I did it follow you. And it looks brightening my room.
Diya says
Do you think your entire process would work well on ceilings? I have a textured ceiling that I’ve been wanting to cover. The room is not very big, but does have a tray ceiling. Thanks!
Kaleb says
It’s really what I love for my room, Actually I did it follow you. And it looks brightening my room.
Steph K says
Make a cheap and easy DIY shiplap wall with this easy tutorial
Diane Walker says
Thanks for your good information!
We want to do a shiplap accent wall in our kitchen. It’s roughly 4′ x 8′. I want the shiplap to be an ivory color but all of the trim in our house is oak. Would it be best to just remove that section of baseboard, leave it as is with the different color baseboard and put the ship lap behind it, or paint the old baseboard the ivory color?
Also, how do you finish the edges of a 4′ wide shiplap wall that has outside corners on each side?
Long says
A big thank you for your article. Really thank you!
Dustin says
thanks for your Article, is was helpful and amazing
Ashley says
Hi! Found this on pintrest! This was awesome and incredibly helpful. Is it, in your opinion ok to use white primed plywood?
Kirsten Swanson Bowen says
This looks beautiful! thanks for the ideas and instruction!
Dayne Conn says
So great and easy to follow. Thank you!
Ann Millwood says
Did you paint the drywall white first? My wall is a pale peach color and the shiplap will be white.
Lisa says
I would probably paint it first since you have peach underneath. Our walls were already white.
Kenny says
Great content! Thank you for sharing!
Teresa says
I wish you would have shown in a picture, the nickel spacers being used.
Laura says
We are going to try this soon! Thanks for the tutorial! Wondering if your molding/ceiling/bedroom doors are also the BM Dove white? We are re-doing a room and the molding/ceiling look white but unsure if it will look off when paired with the dove and if we should paint it all the same? Thank you!!
Mallory Profitt says
Hello,
Did you just use a nickel between rows not
between the 8ft and the 5ft piece? Did you just butt those two up against each other? Thanks!
Mallory
Lisa says
We only used the nickel between the rows, not at the ends. Hope that helps.
Evelyn Gayle Moore says
I just found your website and so far I am thoroughly enjoying reading a few of the sections that I have had time to read. I plan on reading more in the near future. I have always loved the shiplap walls so I started with that one first. You certainly make it sound easy to do. I am printing out your instructions just in case I ever get the chance to do a wall in my home like you did. I hope that you have a “subscribe” button so that I can join your mailing list. Thanks so much for all of your wonderful “Farm House” DIY ideas!
Lisa says
Thank you so much. It was a fairly easy project. Hope it turns out well for you.
Stacey says
Why do you have to have a nickel to space them vs having boards up against each other? Thank you!
Lisa says
It just adds a nice even space between each board which can help if any warping happens.
Kara says
I want to do this but have a few questions.
Does the natural wood grain markings on the plywood show thru after you prime and paint the boards?
Also, did you install with space in between the boards? If so, what was the spacing you used and how did you make sure it was the same throughout the process? Or do the boards butt up to one another?
Lisa says
You can’t really see much of the grain once painted. We use a nickel as a spacer between each board when nailing it in place.
Tomi Thomas says
Hello, we are wanting to try to copy your shiplap wall. It’s a really good idea! Just one question, why the space between the boards? Is it needed? Thank you.
Tomi
Lisa says
Technically, you don’t have to use a spacer, it is more for aesthetic purposes. Real shiplap from 100 years ago have a space between, so many people try to recreate this.
Ken says
Great article. I never thought about painting the walls. I might use this idea in a small apartment we are renovating. Thanks.
Lisa says
Awesome! So glad it was helpful for you.